Poulet Chasseur

I’m a Francophile. I admit it. I love all things French. Well, most all things. Enough to make a yearly (sometimes quarterly) trek to absorb the wonders of my heart home.

I have often tried to create the magic here in the states. It has proven impossible (Le sigh).

Except in the kitchen. La cuisine apporte de la magie.

One of the best gifts I received for Christmas this year was a French Cookbook. It includes a special story of a restaurant growing in the vineyards of a small country French village, along with their most loved recipes. I’ve decided to start the journey of trying all of them. An achievable goal for the new year, and one that brings my family and friends great satisfaction and happiness.

So, for tonight:

Poulet Chasseur

It’s a lovely chicken dish with a cognac butter sauce. To say it was delicious is a bit of an understatement. I especially loved how the garni added a fragrant and flavorful bouquet to the sauce, but an added plus: it left a lingering, mouthwatering smell in the house.

I served this dish with jasmine rice, a vegetable mix of brussel sprouts, red peppers and carrots, accompanied by a slice of herb infused cornbread.

In the end, my dinner was better than yours.

Bon Appetit!

Fat Words Do Not Equal Wisdom

“She can’t be that bad off,” he says. “Look how heavy she is.”

It’s just another head-to-desk moment in the face of ignorance. Such words do not reflect reason or rationality, much less wisdom.

Let me start with a disclaimer: I am not on food stamps, nor do I receive any subsidies, TANF support or temporary crisis relief from the government or any affiliates. I have, however written grants for a food bank organization that provided me as a “thank you” two months of the standard monthly food supply box they issue program participants. I have also volunteered with several organizations, packing said boxes and preparing fresh food (I use the term loosely – no, in fact I use it in error) for the needy. Since my current job involves cooking for the less fortunate, and part of my pay includes the food prepared, I have a unique perspective

As I hear such comments it only reveals to me the level of ignorance pervasive in our society.

Let me tell you the contents of my last food box:

• 1 – 2.5 lb. Bag Chicken Nuggets (Fully cooked processed meat for your convenience)
• 1 – 5 lb. Bag Potato Wedges (So you always have a starch)
• 1 – 8” Frozen Pizza
• 1 – Bag Totinos Pizza Rolls (For your quick lunch needs)
• 1 – Box Spaghetti (In a brand unknown to man)
• 1 – Can Spaghetti Sauce (A Mexican brand for authenticity)
• 2 – Can Cream Style Corn (Additional cream in your starchy vegetable is a must)
• 2 – Can Green Beans (with 413 mg Sodium, for added supplementation)
• 1 – Bag of Onions (1 rotten in the bag)
• 1 – Jar Peanut Butter (Likely made from the shells and not the peanuts)
• 3 – Boxes of Cream Cheese (Frozen, and therefore adequately separated)
• 1 – Bag Powdered Donuts (For a healthy breakfast alternative)
• 6 – Croissants (only hardened on the corners)
• 6 – Bagels (Rock hard and ready for weapons)
• 1 – 12-Pack Hot Dogs (A value brand with more chemicals than rejected meat parts)
• 1 – Frozen Apple Pie (With more apple filling than apple)
• 1 – Box Fig Square bars (An experiment on the Fig Newton)
• 4 – Bars of Soap (unboxed and loose in the bag)
• 1 – Can Pork and Beans (Van Kamp is to be commended at this point)
• 1 – Bag White Rice (Good Choice)
• 1 – Bag Dried Pinto Beans (Another good choice)

Now, in reviewing this list there are two very accurate statements to be made: 1. This amount of food will really help a hungry family and is a blessing, and 2. The contents of this box contributes to weight gain, diabetes, high cholesterol and an overall lethargic state of health.

Now, if you fall far enough below the poverty line, you can also get an EBT card as part of the SNAP (Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program). This will allow you to purchase breads, cereals, fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, poultry and dairy products at the grocery store. That certainly helps balance the scales (no pun intended) a bit; except in reality the amount on the EBT card when applied to current grocery store pricing results in really only a week’s worth of “healthy” food supplementation. And, if you are even 5 dollars above that set poverty line, you do not qualify for the card, and therefore will be dependent on the content of the box alone.

I’m not knocking the Food Banks and Charity organizations that are so graciously providing food for the community. Not at all. They are a Godsend and are doing amazing work. These food boxes mean Americans who have fallen into adversity are not going hungry. This cannot be disputed. I’m only speaking against the judgmental attitudes of those who make ignorant attacks against the unfortunate, making statements that are counterproductive to the system and to any steps toward improvement.

It’s no secret the United States is known for their unhealthy food choices and lifestyle. Even the richest in our country fall victim to the processed and fast food epidemic. But a family in poverty, dependent on the provisions of charity and subsidy programs, without the choices available to most, the quest for health is close to futile.

I have travelled a lot throughout the years, and every time I am out of the country for more than a week, I can count on losing 8-10 pounds at a minimum solely based on the surrounding food philosophies. This isn’t just me talking, either. It’s a reported fact that the American way of processed, chemically manufactured and hormone-supported food is counterproductive to health and weight management. With obesity directly tied to these issues, is it any surprise the group without choice would fall privy to this issue?

I can tell you, I’ve never seen a food drive that produced organic donations. The possibility for fresh produce is non-existent simply based on the procedures within the system, and frozen vegetables are a rare donation since the average American family depends on them to meet their food pyramid demands. Additionally, real meat products are more seasonal than standard. On special occasions, such as Easter, Thanksgiving and Easter, a special meat will be provided in a food box, such as a small ham, a whole chicken or a roast. These generous gifts are from grocers who have overstocked for the special occasion and certainly not reflective of a scheduled supply.

The weight of a person is no indication of need. Can’t you see the problem?

Before you pass judgments on the true need of the less fortunate, why not think about the facts and do the math as you eat your second organic muffin and drink your grande macchiato?

120 Years of Torture And Now This

We were on a road trip, driving through the night on our way to Georgia from Pennsylvania, when my friend poured out her heart, sharing her childhood woes and the abuse she’d endured: primarily, the dreaded Olive Loaf.  For those of  you who are not aware of this torture tactic used by parents to support Oscar Meyer, the Olive Loaf is a lunch meat identified as mechanically separated chicken with propionate & benzoate, olives, pimentos and various ingredients designed to preserve that which should not be preserved.

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This lunch meat has been on the market for 120 and yet most of us wonder how.  My friend doesn’t just wonder; she is tortured by the memory of sack lunches and picnics in the park.

Ironically, this lunch meat is one of the most donated items at food banks and non-profit shelters.  Is this kindness or cruelty?  It’s hard to say since even the hungry seem to pass on this particular delicacy.  Tonight, I sought to re-purpose this meat, to transform the dreaded Olive Loaf from torture to a taste sensation.  It would require creativity, ingenuity and superhuman powers.

I didn’t give myself time to reconsider this project, but jumped into the task with the speed of a Food Network Chopped Champion.  Tearing open the package, I ignored the individual slices, pulled it out as a block and diced it.  I sauteed it in a pan of garlic and onions, sprinkled with red pepper chipotle seasoning.

A quick pie crust was spread across a pan and the bottom brushed with a barbeque and salsa mixture.  After sprinkling a layer of shredded parmesan & romano cheese, I added a layer of mixed vegetables followed by a layer of the sauteed meat.  I then sprinkled the top with goat cheese crumbles and poured a mix of 4 eggs beaten with 1/4 cup of cream.  A pinch of salt, pepper and parsley on top for seasoning, and this experiment was ready to cook (350 degrees).

About 30-40 minutes later ….

The taste testers – or victims depending on the results – lined up to be served. There were no screams or cries for freedom; I was not attacked by an angry mob of processed meat vigilantes.  Instead, they thanked me and asked for seconds, oblivious to the hidden evil of this savory pie.

Tonight, for a short fifteen minutes, Oscar Meyer was redeemed when his Olive Loaf took center stage and people lived to tell about it.  Tonight, I was wonder woman and it felt good.

Selah!

Have Some Halva

The first time I tasted Halva I thought I was eating flavored particle board.

It was in a gift box sent to me from a friend in Israel. I had no idea what it was. The writing on the box was in Hebrew and all my friend told me on her note was that it was a popular sweet treat in her country. I could see from the picture on the box, the individually wrapped squares came in three flavors: vanilla, almond and honey. I had no idea which one I would be sampling as I bit into the soft, slightly greasy square. I certainly was not prepared for the sawdust washing down my throat.

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I teased my family into trying this would-be delicacy, anticipating the sputtering and frowns, and laughing at their expressions. It became quite the joke.

But the joke was on me.

You see, Halva is a sweet, candylike confection of turkish origin with a flavor base of ground sesame seeds (Tahini) and honey. Other ingredients are added, such as the vanilla and almond,to produce a variety of flavor profiles. It’s the crystallization of the natural sugars that create the distinct texture. It’s a fascinating play on the palate. Though the texture at first seems to be a distraction, it soon becomes an accent to the burst of flavor packed in a small bite.

What you cannot anticipate is the addictive quality of such a simple candy.

My obsession started in the Jerusalem market when a vendor handed me a sample of his espresso halva.

Oh. My. Goodness.

A coffee bean melting in my mouth. I couldn’t get enough. It wasn’t surprising that I whipped out my shekles and bought a block. I nibbled as we walked the streets of Jerusalem, and a couple of days later when I landed in France, I was still nibbling. Yes. I was snacking on an Israeli sweet in France. The irony could not be missed.

By the time I got home, I only had enough to offer my family and friends a fingernail size sample before the dreaded day came when my box was empty.

I found a market near me that sold boxes of the individually packaged, manufactured squares, and although good they did not come near the wonder of the fresh halva of Israel. I was going through withdrawals. It was time for a radical move.

You guessed it. The pots came out.

Homemade Halva

Base
2 cups honey
1 1/2 cups tahini, well stirred to combine

Optional ingredients (Up to 2 cups of one of the following to taste)

Sliced Almonds
Peanuts
Cashews
Bourbon Glazed Pecans
Pistachios
Dried Fruits
Bits of chocolate
Marshmallow
Bits of your favorite cookie

Or Infuse one of the following flavors
Vanilla
Cocoa
Coffee
Green Tea
Cinnamon
Pumpkin

Directions

Heat honey on medium heat until your candy or instant-read thermometer reads 240˚ F, or indicates the “soft ball” stage of candy making. To confirm that you are at the “soft ball” stage, drop a bit of the honey into a cup of cold water. It should form a sticky and soft ball that flattens when removed from the water.

Have the tahini ready to heat in a separate small pot, and once the honey is at the appropriate temperature, set the honey aside and heat tahini to 120˚ F.

Add the warmed tahini to the honey and mix with a wooden spoon to combine. At first it will look separated but after a few minutes, the mixture will come together smoothly.

Add the optional ingredient, if using. Continue to mix until the mixture starts to stiffen, for a good 6-8 minutes. Pour mixture into a well-greased loaf pan, or into a greased cake pan with a removable bottom.

Let cool to room temperature and wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Leave in the refrigerator for up to 36 hours. This will allow the sugar crystals to form.

Invert to remove from pan and cut into pieces with a sharp knife.

To transform it from a candy to a dessert pastry, try glazing it with a complimentary icing.

It will keep for months in the refrigerator, tightly wrapped in plastic…that is if you don’t eat it all first!

Halva some…You’ll be addicted too.

Now Sparkling at Starbucks

“Your summer playground is here.”

Surprisingly, it’s not a pick-up line.  It’s the theme of the new Starbucks handcrafted soda line.  These are designed to be refresher beverages, fruit drinks made with real sugar (not corn syrup) and infused with carbonation.  I had the opportunity to sample many of the flavors today, and although I wasn’t transported into a past childhood playground – or drawn into an adult fantasy playground for that matter –  it was fascinating to taste what passed the development and marketing tests to make it into the stores.

The Bad

My first taste was not encouraging.  It was Lime and I immediately thought it would be better used as a palate cleanser than a refreshing beverage.  The Berry Hibiscus was only slightly better, but had the unique ability of being slightly addictive in spite of it’s questionable flavor.  The Root Beer could have been a Sassafras Tea gone bad: it may be more medicinal than tasty.

The Good

The Lemonade took me back to France, where Limonade is supreme (Now this is a playground I can appreciate).  But the best by far was the Orange.  I expected it to be a take-off on Orangina, but it was much more.  There was a burst of Mandarin Orange to make your taste buds spin.

Like so many of the Starbucks drinks, these refreshers are overpriced for what you get, so I’m not certain I’d set out to intentionally purchase one, but to cool down on a hot day these drinks are a viable option.  They definitely were not the bully on the playground, leaving you disappointed and betrayed, miserable in a time of fun, and yet I’d stick with the comfortable friends.  I’d rather pay a price for a satisfying flavor than a stomach elixir.

Rough at The Reef

It was a rough night for food.

Granted, we were already frustrated after our first restaurant choice could not seat us and the second was closed, but that just meant by the time we reached the Dolphin Reef in Tybee Island, Savannah, Georgia, we were hungry enough for even the basic food to pass the taste test.  There was also the thrill of this being a new experience since we had never been here.

It was disconcerting when we were directed to the second floor bar due to a private party, but this is business and who really minds eating at the bar?  Especially when it overlooks the ocean under the light of a full moon.

We quickly discovered we would be one of three tables being served.  Now, this could go either way.  We could have the best service or the worst.

You’ve probably guessed.  It wasn’t good.

We ordered the salmon, grouper (both on the fresh catch of the day menu) and steak (medium rare).  No substitutions or special challenges.  We did ask for a side of hush puppies for an addition, but nothing challenging here.

It took 35 minutes to see the waitress again.  She came bearing fish.  Lukewarm fish with a fruit coctail topping they proclaimed magically tranformed the fish to “carribean style.”  The steak would be out in a minute; they were plating it.

10 minutes later, we got the tepid steak.

Sadly…or fortunately, depending on your take, we never received the hush puppies.

Let me just say, the food wasn’t the worst I’ve had.  It tasted like what I could have at many family tables in America.  Pull out the frozen fish, open up a can of fruit coctail for garnish, spoon a little prepackaged dirty rice and some crispy green beans on the side and let it sit while you wait for Dad to pull the steak off the grill. Of course, he let’s it sit in the snow as he cleans up and turns off the gas tank.  By the time the food is on the table, it all sits for a bit while Sis takes her time hanging up the phone from talking to her boyfriend. Finally you can pray over that food before you dig in!

I don’t pay $65 to sit at this American table.  I won’t again.

Food Fail.

They Aim To Pleaz At Daddy D’z

At an obscure intersection in the Grant Park area of Atlanta, Georgia is a dilapidated building that would be completely overlooked were it not for the urban graffiti-esque art covering the exterior and the smell of smoked beef that permeates the air.  It’s Daddy D’z BBQ Joynt, voted Atlanta’s best barbeque by Creative Loafing and featured on the Food Network.

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It’s not a fancy place.  The furniture is used and well worn, the building is in ill-repair, and the HVAC runs on a “spit and a prayer.”  What it lacks in ambiance by most standards, it makes up for in friendly hospitaliity and quality food.

It was early evening when we arrived, but the place was already busy. The menu is printed on laminated 11×17 sheets and includes sandwiches, soups, Brunswick stew, appetizers and dinner plates.  The barbeque sauces come in mild or hot.

I’m rather picky about my barbeque, so I was ready to be critical.  They made it difficult.

The pork is tender and flavorful, the brisket melts in your mouth, and the pork ribs will leave you sucking the bones.  The mild sauce is tomato-based with a sweet burst of flavor, whereas the hot sauce is vinegar based with an initial
sweetness followed by a burst of tangy heat.

The cole slaw had the perfect texture, not too watery but not too creamy; it highlighted the cabbage and not the flavors of the sauce.  The baked beans were thick and tangy, the fried zucchini lightly battered, and the collard greens had a hint pepper vinegar that cut the bitterness of the greens without overpowering.  There was absolutely nothing to fault with any of our dishes.

The service was excellent.  Our waitresses were not only patient and friendly, but ready to answer questions and enthusiastic about the options. They dressed for comfort and personality, and did they have personality! If they weren’t laughing they were telling a story.

Our fellow patrons were relaxed and ready to chat with everyone who offered a smile. It was an eclectic group, united by good food, good music and fun. We could have easily been mistaken for the extras in a 1970s independent B movie.

We were there for a friend’s birthday. As the waitress brought out the blackberry cobbler (a light dessert leaving the berries untainted by an abundance of sweet), we broke into the birthday song. We might as well have been howling at the moon as singing on key. The table behind us clapped and explained they were celebrating a birthday, too.  We howled for them, this time at least finding a key.  The entire restaurant applauded.

This is a blues venue, so several nights a week blues bands will play and transform this hole-in-the-wall to an old south jook joint. Blues musicians and local African-American celebrities are celebrated in the artwork on the wall, and the overall feel echoes back to an era long past.

We lingered, enjoying our time and experiencing none of the impatience to “get them in and get them out” that is so often the attitude in restaurants today.  We were part of a community, a family.  That was never more clear than when a fellow patron came to the table, asked to shake the hand of the birthday boy and left a $20 bill in his palm.  Strangers become friends at Daddy D’z, and they do it in the traditional southern way…over good food.

Daddy D’z proudly proclaims “We ain’t pretty but we’re good.”  I’d have to say pretty is as pretty does, and they do it very good!