We’ve packed a sack for the desert today. I have visions of Lawrence of Arabia and am tempted to wrap my head in a white pillowcase. I resisted. Instead I packed the sunblock and bug spray (because moquito spray is certain to repel scorpions and other mutant desert bugs, right?). There’s a token eye-roll from my friend. Clearly I’ve watched Clash of the Titans one too many times.
The drive from Herzliya is about 2 hours according to WAZE, the handy community based GPS app we are using. This is generally a great app for providing directions, real time traffic and road updates, and suggestions from the community. What no one tells you is it doesn’t work when you go below sea level. Not that it completely shuts down. That would at least be a indicator that you are on your own on your journey. 
No, this app just begins to direct you to random locations, recalculating constantly and basically keeping you driving in circles…in the desert…with no food or water…
We should probably follow the signs. You know, the ones that say Dead Sea. Ein Gedi is right at the Dead Sea. We’re saved!!!
Ein Gedi is an oasis in Israel, located west of the Dead Sea, near Masada and the caves of Qumran. I don’t really know much about it, but as I search my memory bank of Bible history & Sunday school stories I can recall a few things.
I’m pretty sure Josaphat fought the Moabites & Ammonites here and that David was hiding in Ein Gedi when King Saul found him in the craggy rocks. It may have been a reference in the Song of Solomon as well. I’m expecting an amazing green island of palm trees and running water in the middle of the desert, the refuge of which mirages are based. I’m not wrong…and not right.
Ein Gedi was declared a nature reserve in 1971 and the national park as late as 2002. Since that time it has become a major tourist attraction for international visitors and Israelis alike. The parking area is chaotic and the entrance was constructed to mirror those of amusement parks. Since we are here during passover week, the park is packed for the holiday.
Two spring-fed streams flow through the Ein Gedi nature reserve: Nahal David and Nahal Arugot. The Shulamit and Ein Gedi springs also flow in the reserve. Together, the springs generate approximately three million cubic meters of water per year. Much of the water is used for agriculture or is bottled for consumption. After purchasing the entry tickets, we begin our trek up the mountain toward the springs. 
The path takes you along the streams, where there are access points along the way to dip your feet in the water or play in the falls, and up the mountain where you can either continue higher to a plateau or cross the stream to begin the hike down on the opposite side. There are areas that are slippery and a little dangerous in a crowd that is a little too willing to push and shove. My friend reminisced about field trips in school that focused on exploring Israel and nurturing an appreciation of the land. She recalled how frightening it could be too hike the path as a small child. As I readied myself to catch the child in front of me who was slipping on the rocks, I could understand completely.
The reserve is a sanctuary for many types of plant, bird and animal species. The Sodom apple, acacia, jujube and poplar are just a few of the plants and trees lining the area. We didn’t see many bird species, even though there can be up to 200 resident and migrating birds in the area during the spring. We did however catch a view of a couple of mammal species, the Nubian ibex and the rock hyrax, who were desperately seeking respite from the paparazzi seeking candid photos of them at play.
Although the paths are clearly marked and managed, this is not an easy hike. I would certainly classify it as a class 2/3 hike. The trail is stable, but is rocky, slippery in places, and has steep ups and downs. If you are in average physical health and have good shoes, it will not be an issue at all. It does put pressure on your knees and becomes a little more difficult as the crowds increase.
Kibbutz Ein Gedi is about a kilometer from the park. It offers various tourist attractions, including an acclaimed botanical garden. The crowds were offsetting so we are electing to head for Masada.
I can see it from the road: the snake path up the rocky cliff to the ancient fortification built by Herod the Great. That path is crazy difficult.
I don’t need to walk it to see that. Even though I’m up for a good hike now and again, I think the cable car is the way to go. My friend is amused, boldly proclaiming this too was a field trip in school and the cable car was not an option. I had to laugh. I can’t even imagine the permission and release forms that would need to be completed to allow a field trip like this in the states. Still, right now this is about saving our strength for the sites at the top. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
Most of the historical information about Masada comes from the 1st-century Jewish Roman historian Josephus, but archaeology now shows that Josephus’ account is incomplete and innacurate, so I won’t recount it. I will tell you the excavation is amazing. Due to the remoteness from human habitation and its arid environment, the site remained largely untouched by humans or nature for two millennia. It was identified in 1842 and extensively excavated between 1963 and 1965.
Herod the Great fortified Masada first after he gained control of his kingdom. There were three building phases. During the first phase the Western Palace was built, along with three smaller palaces, a storeroom, army barracks, three columbarium towers and a swimming pool at the south end of the site.
The second building phase included an addition of the Western Palace, a large storage complex for food, and the Northern Palace.
The Northern Palace was lavish. It was built on the hilltop on the north side and continued two levels down over the end of the cliffs. The upper terrace was the living quarters for the king and a semi-circular portico to provide a view of the area. A stairway on the west side led down to the middle terrace that was a decorative circular reception hall and then the lower terrace was for receptions and banquets. It was enclosed on all four sides with porticos and included a Roman bathhouse.
The third and final building phase was actually the casemate wall that enclosed the entire site of Masada. So much of the foundational structure and design remnants remain that it is easy to imagine what this may have looked like before sieges and time took over.
I love that more than just archeology was excavated and now endures. In the 1960s, a 2,000-year-old seed was discovered during archaeological excavations. It was successfully germinated into a date plant. It makes me really appreciate the enduring sustainability of the date palms that sprinkle the desert landscape in the area.
They are blowing the horn to announce the final cable car trip for the day will be in 15 minutes. The light show on the Masada Plan will start at sundown. We are not going to stay. We’re going to dinner…and perhaps pet a camel along the way if we find a Bedouin.
“Can I pet your camel?” That may be the worst pick-up line in Israel.
by G. Anne Bassett 