Baltimore is one of the ugliest cities in America according to Travel & Leisure magazine.
What do they know? As it turns out…
It’s not just tourists or so-called experts making this judgment, but the residents as well.
I’m on my way to meet an online friend. This will be our first face-to-face meeting, although I feel like I’ve known her for years. I do wonder how she will unveil this ugly city. What will she have to say about the town she embraces?
It has been my experience as I’ve been on my quest this past year that people like to show off the best part of their homeland. They acknowledge the good, the bad and the ugly with a flip of the wrist as they move on to the good stuff. In an area that is scoring low in every area of significance, what will be the focus? What is the “good stuff”?
As I drove through the city, I have to agree the skyline, cleanliness and overall first impression of Baltimore isn’t anything to rave about. But I was meeting her near the waterfront. It’s hard to go wrong at a harbor, especially when there is an obvious effort to revitalize the district with a melding of history and modern influences.
The cobblestone streets and old-world architecture of Fell’s Point is balanced with hipster bars, trendy shops, local artisan galleries and upscale restaurants. But what you really want to know is that this area boasts the largest concentration of bars and pubs in the city. Well, that and the fact the area is rich with a varied ethnic population adding a much needed flavor to the business district that has a presence along the periphery. It would be the perfect place to film a network drama. Wait…It was the central location for Homicide: Life on the Streets in the 90s.
We didn’t spend much time touring the city. Instead, my focus was directed to important elements of life in Baltimore. One, Baltimore is made of neighborhoods, each with their own focus, feel and flavor, and two, it’s Small-timore. Everyone resident seems to have there own 6-degrees to Kevin Bacon going for them. This was important to learn since I was about to find out what makes Baltimore special…besides Michael Phelps…and the Ravens.
The neighborhoods of Baltimore may be be identified by architectural styles or economic standing, but they are mostly defined by the common interests and values of the residents. The people are exceedingly welcoming and friendly in Baltimore. They love to rave about each other, about their lives, their art, their interests, and yes, their loves. And they are radical Raven fans. The city is one big party after a game.
As I sat around tables, drinking coffee from handmade pottery in a room of professors, doctors, artists, journalists and accountants, all erudite hipsters enjoying life, or in a a hole-in-the-wall restaurant with local chefs and food critics, I understood the draw of the city. It is a beauty beyond monuments, museums and tourist sites. It is the heart of the city. The people.
I often tease my friend – a magazine editor who once featured their Baltimore Olympic Athlete with a couple of Blue Crabs on the cover photo – that she would one day be able to say she gave Michael Phelps crabs. I didn’t get crabs. I didn’t get to be on the cover of a magazine either. What I did get was a great welcome into the arms of a beautiful ugly city.
Perhaps Travel & Leisure should put down the polls and have a beer with the people. Then they’d find the beauty of Baltimore…and maybe get crabs.
by G. Anne Bassett 